The W: Part 2

Day 3
Sleeping in a tent was much more successful the second night. There was no rain and the wind was manageable. Day 3 is a big day as we were hiking up into the French valley for some amazing views. We loaded up on carbs and adrenaline at breakfast thanks to the hardcore rap that played while we ate.

Day 3: Ready to go. You can already see the wind

A good sign before the start of a hike (I think)

Our hike took us along Nordenskjold lake for a bit before cutting up into the valley. We were optimistic for the weather today as a rainbow was in the sky as we set off. As we cleared the treeline and walked along the lake we were greeted by our old Patagonian friend, the wind. It was strong enough that it was picking water off the surface of the lake and making it look like rain. That little trick also left us with a moment where it looked like the rainbow was actually moving towards us. It was really just a ploy so we'd stop moving and the water would then dump on us.

Wind blowing water off the surface of Nordenskjold Lake

We eventually cut in off the lake and escaped the wind for a little while. We finished up our segment and found ourselves at the Italiano ranger station. From here we could continue on towards our night's accommodations at Paine Grande or head into the valley. Despite the wind, the weather was on our side (for now) and we chose to head up into the valley. We left our bag at the ranger's station (in a big pile with everyone else doing the same thing) and set off for a 3-4 hour hike.

The first rule of Patagonian weather is you don't ask about Patagonian weather

It was a tough hike up the valley. It was mainly all uphill with a few steep parts but it was very rewarding. When you hit the first lookout, Frances, you're rewarded with a great view back at the lakes as well the snow capped peak of Paine Grande hill. It was rather windy and we were quite exposed so we quickly got some pictures and moved further into the valley.

We saw an avanlanche right after we put the cameras away

The view back out of the valley

The snow up on Paine Grande hill

Heading up to the next lookout, Britannico would take us another hour or so but ended up offering completely different views. Gone was the snowy peak of Paine Grande hill, replaced with a lush forest enclosed by the backside of Los Torres. The lookout was a rocky area with a few large boulders you could sit on that sat above the treeline so you had unimpeded 360 degree views. It was great place to eat our lunch and take in the scenery before heading back to the Italiano ranger station.

The backside of Las Torres

Standing at the Britannico lookout

More of the view from Britannico lookout

As we made it back to Italiano and gathered our things, we still had a 2 hour hike to Paine Grande Lodge. All of the good weather we were afforded in the valley was quickly taken away. About an hour into this section of the hike, the sun went away, the wind picked up and the rain rolled in. Not the steady rain you can eventually get used. This was a light drizzle amplified by the winds. We both quickly compared both it and the terrain we were on to that of Scotland. I did not take this well. Perhaps it was the previous 7 hours of hiking we had already done, but I was miserable for the last half an hour of that hike.

Paine Grande Lodge. Our home for night 3

Relief finally came in the form of Paine Grande Lodge on the shores of Lake Pehoe. This was also our first indoor lodging of the trek and we were rewarded with a private room and bunk beds! After a quick shower, we had a hearty meal of goulash with a beer and sleep came easy to us that evening. 

Day 4. Ready for action!

Day 4
Only a 3 hour hike to go and we've completed the W. After yesterday's marathon, this was going to be easy! Or so I thought. The wind was back in full force and this time directly in our face. The first half of the hike was uphill. Going uphill, into the wind, with a pack on (whose rain cover acts like a parachute) is not recommended. Coming up to the top and having your view open up to a giant lake with another glacier made it somewhat more bearable.

One of smaller lakes in view on the hike towards refugio Grey

Just listen to the wind!

The downhill half was steep (glad we weren't going the other way) and we ran into three guys from Chicago, but we ultimately made it to our final stop and completed the W.

Refugio Grey

We celebrated our completion of the trek with a complimentary pisco sour and an afternoon of lounging on some sofas reading our riveting kindle books. Most of the rooms here are 2 sets of bunk beds. We were the first to our room so it was a bit of excitement to see who our random roommates were going to be for the evening (or 2. We had 2 nights here). As it turns out, it was a nice British couple that we had seen all of the previous days. They had vouchers just like ours and were even living in Wimbledon, near where Jess used to live! It was fate. After a nice dinner, we got our briefing for kayaking the next morning.

Back in the saddle again

Day 5
Technically the official W is completed but we wanted to get some kayaking in since we hadn't done it since Milford Sound back in New Zealand. We headed down the the water, got kitted up and headed out on the lake to kayak by a giant wall of ice. While the wind cooperated (the previous day kayaking had been cancelled), the rain was there for us instead. Jess was the captain as was per our New Zealand agreement of switching each time we did kayaking.

It took us a bit to get back into form and sync...

...But we got there!

We paddled past a large iceberg towards the eastern face of Grey glacier. Going against the current was tougher than I remembered! We pulled off into a bay for a discussion about the glacier as well as some hot tea and chocolates. This glacier is retreating up to 20m a year in certain points. While the top ice was disappearing, there was more than enough underneath the water. The lake was 400m deep in some points. The paddle back was much easier and we even got to paddle under a waterfall!

In front of the eastern edge of Grey glacier

After a nice lunch, we headed back out on the hiking circuit. While the W ends at Grey, the O continues on so we headed up towards the pass as we heard there were 2 bridges that offered really nice views of the glacier. We hit the first bridge which had a nice lookout onto the lake and towards the glacier. There was even a ladder to climb up to get onto this bridge. While we had no trouble with it, we did get to watch someone try and climb down with hiking poles in their hands. It made for some nice entertainment (everyone was safe).

The eastern front of Grey glacier

 About 45 min after the first bridge we reached an amazing lookout and the 2nd bridge. We were almost even with the glacier and could see the crevasses that had formed in it. The bridge was really the highlight though. We both went halfway out to get some photos but that took some nerve. It was perched quite a bit higher than the ravine below. As these bridges naturally bounce as you walk across, this one was amplified even more with the wind. The boards were also spaced just far enough apart to give you the feeling you could fall through if one gave out. I was happy to get my photos and get back on solid ground!

The second bridge. Don't look down.

Grey glacier

Grey glacier from the 2nd bridge where you can really see the crevasses

After the afternoon hike we retired back to the refugio for our last dinner of not getting a choice in what eat.

Day 6
Our journey in Torres del Paine has come to an end. All we have to do is get on a boat and head back. That is if the boat is not broken down or it's too windy to run! There were people that had to hike from Grey all they way back to Hotel las Torres to catch a bus if their weather didn't cooperate. Luckily for us, it turned out to be one of the nicest days we had. Our catamaran even included a tour of the rest of the Grey glacier (there are 3 outlets). It was nice to see under better conditions. When the sun is shining the blue color from the glacier really shines through.

The middle portion of Grey glacier from the catamaran

Grey glacier with the mountains in the background

We even got a nice surprise in that we got to see fresh ice. We saw all the crew taking pictures. Come to find out, there was a large chunk of ice in front of the glacier that wasn't there when they came through on their morning run. It was extremely blue and we think could have come from under the water rather than from above. 

The blue ice on the left had just appeared before our boat journey. The small ice in the foreground was fetched out and used in pisco sours served on the boat.

Just when we thought we could kick up our feet and relax, we found out that the boat docked on a beach and we'd have a 2km walk back to the parking lot. Part of that walk was on a beach and where the wind had been in our face on the way to Refugio Grey a couple days ago, was now a crazy crosswind with people walking both directions leaning into the wind. We were well-conditioned for scenarios like this and made short work of it. 

After a van ride back to Casa Cecilia in Puerto Natales, we were reunited with our luggage, had a long, hot shower and more food at Baguales (it was just around the corner). A quick sleep and we were on the road the next day bound for Punta Arenas.

The W trek was absolutely amazing and one of the biggest highlights of the trip so far. The views were stunning, the weather cooperated when we needed it, and the trails were all very well marked and maintained (though sometimes their distances were off). Anyone looking to experience Patagonia, I would highly recommend this if you're up for the challenge!

-nick